Carignano: Capichera Assajé 2013 – Pairing Rating: 9.5 out of 10.0
Roussanne: Ojai Vineyard Bien Nacido 2014 – Pairing Rating: 9.5
Mushrooms love wine. Whether roasted, grilled or sautéed, they seem to thirst for that sip of grape juice. Perhaps the wine emboldens their earthiness; or the acidity and tannins contrast with the mushroom’s savory, umami flavors, causing the fruit flavors to pop. Regardless, the pairing remains a classic, and we are indebted to the 19th century French who cultivated many of the varieties we enjoy today.
To explore the potential of this mushroom-wine pairing, rather than go to French cookbooks for guidance, we reverted to one of our favorite Venetian cookbooks Restaurant da Fiori. Readers may recall in earlier posts we showcased the restaurant’s recipes for Zucchini and Basil Soup as well as Lobster Pasta with Tomato. Both outstanding creations but we think bested by their Mushroom and Onion Soup (recipe below). This soup is extraordinarily flavorful . . . and without cream, thereby enhancing the earthiness.
In pursuit of the best wine pairings, we considered both red and white varietals. Among the reds, we found several very serviceable pairings: Pinot Noir from Burgundy accented the soup’s earthy qualities; and Syrah from Washington State played well with the savory, umami flavors. Neither stopped us in our tracks, however, but they did move us to explore some lesser-known red varietals. Enter Carignan from Sardinia, or Carignano as it’s called there.
Carignan (care-in-YON), known as Mazuelo in Spain, is prized for its dark, purple color, high acidity, high tannins and peppery finish. It has traditionally been a blending grape with Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. However, with 50+ year old vines, restricted yields and ideal soils, Carignan can make a robust, single-varietal wine jammed with red and black fruits. Further, employing carbonic maceration (a vinification technique used in Beaujolais), the winemaker can tame the grape’s natural astringency, amping both the fruit and the rich color.
Winemakers in the southwest corner of Sardinia (Sulcis subregion) are taking full advantage of their hot, dry climate, long growing season and old vines to produce quality Carignan. We found the Assajé from Capichera, 2013 ($50) to be an excellent exemplar. A nose of violets, black fruits and spice gave way to savory notes and full-bodied, warm ripe fruit on the palate. Tasting the wine without food, and then with the soup, dramatized the impact of the pairing: the Mushroom & Onion soup tamed the tannins and acidity in the wine, allowing the rich fruit to blossom on a long finish. We would have given the pairing a score of 10.0 if Assajé was more readily available in the US. Alternatives include Rocca Rubia Riserva ($27) from Santadi in Sulcis, and Le Carignan from Domaine d’Aupilhac ($31) from Languedoc-Roussillon.
The best white wine pairing also brought us to a lesser-known varietal – Roussanne (roo-SAHN). This Northern Rhone white grape produces a rich, aromatic wine of honeyed fruit and elegant mouthfeel. And its naturally high acidity affords superior aging capability.
Ojai Vineyards, one of the Rhone Rangers of California’s Central Coast, was our producer of choice for Roussanne. The bonus: we were able to purchase this beautifully aged 2014 vintage ($45) from their Tasting Room.
The Roussanne’s perfume reminded us of herbal tea and spring blossoms; on the palate, the dominant fruit was apricot, with notes of buttery almonds and orange marmalade. The pairing with the Mushroom-Onion Soup produced an effect like that of the Carignan: the soup dampened the acidity of the Roussanne but not its vibrant fruit. Sadly, the Ojai Roussanne is sold only at the winery; alternatives include Stolpman from Ballard Canyon, CA ($30) and a Roussanne blend from Chateau Pesquie called Terrasses Blanc ($16). Any Roussanne-dominant blend from Southern Rhone would also work nicely.
Both wines paired beautifully with this outstanding soup recipe. Your only decision: do you favor the bold, dark berry fruits of the Carignan? Or the luscious stone fruit of the Roussanne?
Mushroom and Onion Soup with Wine Pairing
Notes
This recipe is adapted from The da Fiore Cookbook, by Damiano Martin.
Ingredients
- 3/4 pound fresh mushrooms (Shitake, Chanterelle, Cremini, or Hen-of-the-Woods)
- 1 ounce dried Porcini mushrooms
- 1-3/4 lbs yellow onions
- 1/3 cup coarse salt
- 2 Tbsp olive oil for sauteing
- 1 peeled garlic clove, halved
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 cup blond beer or 3 Tbsp of sweet Marsala wine
- 2 Tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
- 6 Tbsp unsalted butter
- 2 medium red potatoes, peeled and cubed
- 6 cups chicken or beef broth (beef bone broth preferred)
- 3 Tbsp toasted, unseasoned breadcrumbs
Instructions
- Peel and slice the onions. Best to use a mandoline on a fine setting (2 mm) for uniform slices.
- Spread the slices in a colander and evenly sprinkle with all of the course salt; use your hands to thoroughly mix.
- Place a paper towel under the colander to catch the onion juice. Set aside for 2 hours.
- Using a colander, rinse the onions THOROUGHLY with cool water. When you think they are rinsed, rinse them again. Squeeze out excess water and pat dry with multiple paper towels or a clean kitchen towel.
- Place the dried Porcini mushrooms in a bowl and pour in ~3/4 cup of hot water. Set aside for a minimum of 30 minutes.
- Lift the Porcini from the liquid with a slotted spoon; rinse them with water and pat dry. Coarsely chop the Porcini and set aside.
- Pour the Porcini soaking liquid through a paper coffee filter to remove any grit; reserve the liquid.
- Brush clean, trim and slice the mushroom for sauteing.
- In a large skillet heat the olive oil and garlic over medium-high heat.
- When the garlic halves begin to brown, remove them and discard. Do not allow the garlic to burn.
- Add the fresh mushrooms and 1/2 of the chopped Porcini to the skillet, season with pepper, and cook until the mushrooms are lightly brown.
- Discard the remaining Porcini or save for another recipe.
- Add the beer (or the Marsala), bring the mixture to a low boil, allowing the alcohol to evaporate, about 2 minutes.
- Add the chopped parsley and stir in the 1/2 cup of the reserved Porcini soaking liquid.
- Simmer for 2-3 minutes, remove from heat and set aside.
- In a large saucepan or stock pot, melt the butter over medium heat.
- Add the onions, increase the heat to medium-high and cook stirring often ~ 3 min.
- Add the cubed potatoes, stir to blend and cook for another 3 minutes.
- Stir in the mushrooms and their juice, cook for another 3 minutes.
- Add the broth to the pot and bring the mixture to a boil.
- Reduce the heat and simmer partially covered for 1 hour. Let it cool slightly.
- Transfer the soup in batches to a blender or food processor. Pulse to puree, leaving small, visible bits of mushrooms.
- When all of the soup is processed, return the soup to the sauce pan or stock pot and heat to simmer.
- Check for salt, noting that the onions may hold residual salt and the stock may contain salt.
- Divide among soup bowls, top with breadcrumbs and serve immediately.
Adam says
This soup looks great. Can’t wait to try this with the Roussanne!
Steven says
Thanks for commenting, Adam. We’ll serve it over the Holidays!
LINDA ORTWEIN says
Soup looks great and the wines lovely. Can’t wait to try this. Thanks Steve!
Steven says
Thanks for commenting, Linda. If Roussanne is hard to find in Germany, try a Trocken Riesling with big fruit.
Elizabeth Fernandez says
I always enjoy reading your blog, Steve! This mushroom soup looks amazing and I will follow your wine pairing suggestions. Happy Holidays!
Steven says
Thanks for commenting, Elizabeth. So good to hear from you! Hope you and Kelly are well.