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Steven's Wine and Food Blog

Exploring and Rating Wine and Food Pairings

February 22, 2019 By Steven 105 Comments

Lobster Pasta with Tomato – Red or White Wine?

Jump to recipe

Fiano: Romano Clelia Colli di Lapio 2017 – Pairing Rating: 9.5
Pinot Noir:  Williams & Selyem Sonoma Coast 2016 – Pairing Rating 8.5

Four years ago, Trish and I wrote a post titled Meursault with Lobster & Tarragon. The recipe was from the first Silver Palate Cookbook. We’ve recently taken that post down because: a.) that recipe is no longer available online, and b.) we found a better recipe – fresher, lighter and with more lobster flavor. An upgrade.

This elegant rendition of a classic pasta dish, a modified recipe (see below) from Venice’s Restaurant Da Fiore, is distinctive in its use of fresh tomato, an absence of butter, and minimal use of cream. This led our wine pairing away from Chardonnay, where butter and cream are natural partners. Instead, it was the fresh tomato that prompted us to consider Pinot Noir.

Our first choice was a 2016 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir ($55) from select Sonoma Coast vineyards. This beautiful wine delivers finesse, ripe cherry fruit and an acid spine in a way that warmer climes in Sonoma only begin to approach. And while the acidity was an appropriate match for the tomato, the fruit was too dominant for the delicate flavors of the lobster. One forkful followed by one sip left you only recalling the wine. One might liken it to the loudest person in the room at a cocktail party. Not what we were looking for in the pairing . . . so we moved on.

Our search for a pairing with more elegance came with a qualifier: it needed enough acidity to match the tomato but not overpower the lobster. We settled on one of our favorite Italian white wines, Fiano di Avellino.

Fiano di Avellino is an ancient variety cultivated in the Campania region of Italy near Naples, very near the village of Avellino. (Ironically, Trish’s maternal great-grandparents grew up in Avellino). Fiano is chameleon-like, ranging from minerally to lush, smoky to floral, based on soils, growing conditions and winemaker decisions. We chose Romano Clelia’s Colli di Lapio 2017 ($25). The clay-rich soils of the Lapio subregion make for an elegant white wine with a lush mouthfeel. The wine serves up notes of honey, tropical fruits and spice. Perfect for the lobster. We backed off a perfect pairing score of 10.0, however, in view of the wine’s somewhat limited availability. Alternates would be Fiano from Ciro Picariello ($25) or Terredora CampoRe ($27).

We think Fiano di Avellino is one of the best white wines no one has ever heard of (in the US, that is). Perhaps that’s why very few restaurants include a Fiano on their wine lists. Validation can be heartening, however, as when we read recently that Ian D’Agata, a noted Italian wine critic, wrote of Romano Clelia’s Fiano “. . . this is arguably Italy’s single best white wine.”

Lobster Pasta with Tomato

Print this recipe
February 22, 2019
by Steven
Cuisine Italian
Category Fiano di Avellino Pasta Pinot Noir Shellfish
Persons
4
Lobster Pasta with Tomato

Ingredients

  • 1 lb. of just-cooked Lobster meat cut into 1″ pieces; be careful not to overcook.
  • 1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled, but not broken
  • 1 lb. ripe Plum tomatoes peeled, seeded and julienned or 1 can of diced Tomatoes (14.5 oz.)
  • Pinch of Cayenne pepper (to taste)
  • 1/4 cup brandy or cognac
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1 – 2 tablespoons of heavy cream
  • 1 lb of Fettuccine
  • 2 tablespoons of chopped flat-leaf parsley

Instructions

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil; hold at a simmer until ready to cook the pasta.
  2. Take the cooked Lobster out of the frig to allow it to come to room temperature
  3. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.
  4. Drain the canned tomatoes, reserving the juice.
  5. Add the garlic, drained tomatoes and cayenne pepper to the oil.
  6. Cook about 10 minutes, stirring often, until the tomatoes soften.
  7. Return the salted water to boil and cook the pasta until al dente.
  8. While the pasta is cooking, add the brandy to the saucepan and cook until reduced, about 2 minutes
  9. Add the white wine to the saucepan and reduce it by half, about 3 min.
  10. Reduce the saucepan heat to low, remove the garlic, add the parsley, cream and lobster.
  11. Cover pan to just warm the lobster. Do not overcook as the lobster will toughen.
  12. Drain the pasta and add it to the saucepan and toss. Taste for salt.
  13. Serve immediately.
https://wineandfoodpairings.net/shellfish/lobster-pasta-with-tomato-red-or-white-wine/

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Filed Under: Fiano di Avellino, Pasta, Pinot Noir, Shellfish

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Nick Vitale says

    February 22, 2019 at 5:27 pm

    Can’t wait to give this recipe a try. Thank you for always posting such a great blog.

    Reply
    • Steven says

      February 23, 2019 at 2:25 pm

      Great to hear from you, Nick, and thanks for reading and commenting! Hope all is well. We are in Cali, back in May. Let’s make this the year we go back to Arthur Ave.

      Reply
  2. Merle Tabor Stern says

    February 22, 2019 at 5:37 pm

    My mouth is watering……will need to give this a try. And looking forward to what awaits! Cheers!

    Reply
    • Steven says

      February 23, 2019 at 5:47 pm

      Thanks, Merle. Appreciate the comment. If you make it, we’ll bring the Fiano di Avellino!

      Reply
  3. Jim Berges says

    February 22, 2019 at 7:01 pm

    We want to try this pairing on your next visit to Vero!

    Reply
    • Steven says

      February 23, 2019 at 5:48 pm

      Thanks for commenting, Jim. Vero’s a long way off. How about trying it in California?

      Reply
  4. LOrtwein says

    February 23, 2019 at 4:20 am

    Another lovely pairing and great write-up.

    Reply
    • Steven says

      February 23, 2019 at 5:44 pm

      Thanks, Linda, for reading and commenting. Hope all is well!

      Reply
  5. Nicole Ruiz Hudson says

    March 2, 2019 at 2:41 pm

    This looks really delicious! I’m sure it was perfect with a Fiano!

    Reply
    • Steven says

      March 9, 2019 at 12:24 pm

      Thanks for commenting, Nicole. Looking forward to your next post!

      Reply

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