Languedoc White: Mas Jullien 2017 – Pairing Rating: 10.0 out of 10.0
Provence Rosé: Peyrassol Cuvée de la Commanderie 2017 – Pairing Rating: 8.0
Sauvignon Blanc: Henri Bourgeois Sancerre 2014 – Pairing Rating: 8.0
“When it comes to wine, being open-minded means extra pleasure” Eric Asimov
When studying for the French Wine Scholar exam, I developed a keen interest in the Languedoc region of Southern France. Although it is one of the largest wine-producing regions in the country, it remains largely unexplored by US wine buyers. This is unfortunate, because the past 10 years have seen noteworthy developments there: an influx of young wine growers, a strong move towards organic viticulture, restrained extraction levels and a resurgence of the Carignan grape.
Photo Source: Vin en Vacances Wine & Food Tours
Emblematic of this revitalization is the appellation Terrasses du Larzac. Elevated to AOP status in 2015, Terrasses is nestled under the limestone karst plateau of Larzac, with some of the highest and coolest vineyards in all of Languedoc – great growing conditions for producing wines exhibiting freshness, texture and aging potential.
My interest in Terrasses du Larzac led me to one of their outstanding producers, Mas Jullien. Acclaimed for its red wine, Carlan, the Domaine also produces a white wine under the département banner Pays d’Hérault. This white wine is so incredibly luscious, we immediately focused on finding a worthy food pairing. We found it in an equally delicious Crab Salad with Avocado.
Freshness (lime juice and Champagne vinegar), creaminess (avocado), saline (capers and crab), sweetness (carrots and crab), wedded in each forkful, called out for a wine that could stand up to each of them. And the Mas Jullien White 2017 ($44) delivered in spades.
The Mas Jullien white wine is a blend of 70% Carignan Blanc and 30% Chenin Blanc. The Carignan is a high acid grape with citrus and Herbes de Provence undertones. The Chenin, also a high acid grape, is noted for its high extract, stone fruit aromas and aging potential; it is also capable of making honeyed wines of varying sweetness levels. At Mas Jullien, both grapes are estate-grown and organically farmed on limestone clays & gravels; the vines are 35 years old, on average.
To be sure, the fruit in this wine is top-shelf. Freshness is derived from the grapes’ acidity, while salinity and minerality are derived from the limestone soils. But the magic seems to emanate from the hands of the winemaker, Olivier Jullien. His decision to allow the wine to age 6 months on the lees (dead yeast cells), for a total of 12 months in large, neutral oak barrels, gives the wine a luscious, round mouthfeel. While aging, the wine undergoes spontaneous malolactic fermentation, which softens the acidity of the wine. Apologies for the arcane wine words, but the balance this wine achieves through Jullien’s winemaking process is the essence of its allure and why this pairing sings: refreshing citrus acidity (lime) + subtle honey notes + lush, round mouthfeel.
Other wine pairings simply didn’t measure up. A Côtes de Provence Rosé from Peyrassol was too acidic for this dish, as was a Sancerre from H. Bourgeois. Perhaps a Chardonnay that attains the equivalent balance of acidity & mouthfeel (like an aged Meursault) would work well, but good luck finding that for $44. The Mas Jullien is available at The Cellar d’Or Wine and Cider in Ithaca NY.
Try this recipe and seek out the Mas Jullien white wine. Trish, a steadfast red wine fan, loved it. We think you will as well.
Crab Salad with Avocado – A Languedoc Wine Pairing
Notes
This recipe is adapted from The Wall Street Journal’s Slow Food Fast. The recipe was created by Susan Spicer of the New Orleans restaurant Savoir Faire.
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup very finely diced carrots
- 2 limes
- 1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 medium shallot, minced
- Sea salt
- Tabasco
- 3 tablespoons roughly chopped basil, plus sprigs for garnish
- 3 scallions, finely sliced, white and pale-green parts only
- 1 scallion julienned (set aside for garnish)
- 12 ounces lump crab meat, shell fragments removed
- 2 tablespoons chopped capers (rinsed first)
- 2 avocados, peeled, pitted and sliced lengthwise
Instructions
- Dice the carrots into 1/4″ cubes. If you prefer, you can blanch slightly larger cubes in boiling water for 30 seconds then drain and plunge into ice water. We prefer the crunch of the tiny raw cubes. Set carrots aside
- Zest 1 lime into a small bowl. Then juice both limes into the bowl with the zest.
- Whisk in the Champagne vinegar, olive oil and shallots.
- Check for salt; add Tabasco to taste. Set vinaigrette aside.
- In a medium bowl, toss together the basil, sliced scallions, crabmeat, carrots and capers.
- Fold in the lime vinaigrette until all ingredients are well-coated.
- Arrange avocado slices on plates.
- Top with crab salad mixture and garnish with basil sprigs.
- Scatter julienned scallion spears and serve.
Linda O says
This looks beautiful and delicious!
Steven says
Thanks for commenting, Linda. Wish you were here to enjoy together!
crynning says
The salad looks fabulous and the wines are those I’ll find. Thank you!!
Steven says
Thanks for commenting, Cindy. Both the wine and the salad are great summer fare. Stay healthy and safe.
advinetures says
We’ve certainly heard of that producer but haven’t tried their wine. Clearly we need to remedy that! And that crab salad looks divine…making note of the recipe!
Steven says
Thanks for commenting!
Mary Frances says
This wine sounds amazing!!! What exactly does “estate grown” mean?
Steven says
“Estate-grown” means that the producer grows the grapes used to make the wine, rather than buys the grapes from a grower.