Chicken with Mozzarella, Tomatoes & Pancetta – Wine Pairing

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Sangiovese:  Giacomo Mori Chianti Palazzone 2013 – Pairing Rating:  9.0 out of 10.0

Nero d’Avola:  Feudo Montoni Vrucara 2015 – Pairing Rating 9.5

A shoutout to all chicken lovers:  this recipe and pairing raises the bar. Think of this as something between Margherita Pizza and Chicken Cacciatore, but without the crust and the bell peppers. This food and wine pairing has moved to the top of our list for a weekday, skillet dinner. In large measure, because the recipe focuses on the simplicity of chicken, tomatoes and cheese, spiked with garlic, pancetta and mint.

As with Cacio e Pepe and Caprese Salad, simplicity demands quality ingredients. There’s no hiding behind a mélange of complex spices or smoky grilling flavors. So let’s focus on the quality of two key ingredients in this recipe – the canned tomatoes and the Mozzarella cheese.

Tomatoes

The tomatoes on the left are imported from the San Marzano region of Italy. The tomatoes on the right are widely available, are of good quality and grown from San Marzano seeds, but they are grown and packed in the US. Simply not the same as those grown in Italy. Trust us on this, it’s worth it to pay up for the tomatoes from Italy’s San Marzano region. Cento is one such producer as are Bella Terra, Rega and La Valle. It seems that the region’s climate and soils (between Naples and Salerno) are the keys to the tomato’s superior quality. Look for the words “Certified” or the DOP seal (Protected Designation of Origin) on the label. Think of San Marzano as the Ferrari of tomatoes. While a Ford Mustang also sports a pony on its hood, it’s just not the same.

Mozzarella Cheese

The cheese on the left is imported, fresh Mozzarella made from buffalo milk and packed in water. The one on the right is also fresh, but domestic and made from cow’s milk. The Bufala is softer, without a firm shell; the vacuum-packed cheese has a longer shelf life but is firmer in texture. We always go with the Bufala when we can find it. It is characterful, a bit tangy, and melts more readily than the vacuum-packed mozzarella.

The Wines

Sangiovese from the Chianti region of Tuscany is always a good choice for the flavors of this dish. It has enough acid to stand up to the tomatoes, sufficient tannin to cleanse the palate of the fatty cheese, and is medium-bodied so as not to overwhelm the chicken. A choice that few will argue against.

An excellent, value-based expression of Sangiovese is made by Giacomo Mori ($15 for the 2017), depicted above. The Mori Chianti serves up fresh, bright red fruits, and with a little decanting, smooth tannins on the finish. A very serviceable weekday wine. For more complexity, seek out Rancia Sangiovese from Felsina ($50 for the 2016), and for special occasions, look for the Montevertine Toscano ($75 for the 2016).

But as with pizza, Chianti is a highly predictable wine pairing choice with tomato-dominant recipes. We encourage you to venture south of Tuscany to Sicily and try the Nero d’Avola grape. Indigenous to Sicily, Nero d’Avola is the most widely planted red grape on the Island. The wine we have chosen for this pairing is the 2015 Vrucara from Feudo Montoni ($50).

The 2015 Vrucara is brightly colored with a nose of black cherry, red plums and licorice. On the palate, the berry fruits are lively yet refined. With fine-grained tannins and balanced, integrated acidity, the Vrucara has a suave and elegant style that proved superior to the Mori Chianti in this pairing. Think of this wine as having the body of a Cali Pinot Noir, but with somewhat darker fruit and a Syrah-like spiciness. If the Montoni is hard to find, check out other producers of Nero d’Avola:  COS, Cusumano, Gulfi (Nerobaronj), Morgante (Don Antonio), Planeta and Tasca d’Almerita. These are less expensive bottlings of this varietal but serve as good introductions to this grape.

This recipe and wine pairing, in our view, nail it. Not perhaps for an elegant dinner party, but for a weekday skillet dinner, this combination is unbeatable. And be sure to check out Nero d’Avola or Cerasuolo di Vittoria, where the Nero d’Avola grape is blended with Frappato, another indigenous Sicilian grape. For more this, check out our post on the Cerasuolo di Vittoria.