This is the time of year when wine merchants and wine journalists publish their recommended Holiday wines. Count us among them . . . sort of. We differ in that many journalists often recommend obscure, hard to find wines, available only in NYC or LA. What’s the point of recommending wines your readers can’t easily buy? To this we say: obscure wines don’t always impress. More often, they frustrate.
Our approach to recommending Holiday wine & food pairings recognizes these four concerns:
- Food Pairing: Organize the wines around the entrée and type of grape.
- Availability: Recommend wines only if they are widely available at retail shops, as listed on wine-searcher.com. We aim for availability at 20 or more wine stores.
- Price: If we recommend a wine that’s over $40, we also list a less expensive alternative.
- Crowd-Pleasers: The Holidays are not the time to serve obscure wines. As such, we recommend wines that will please, not challenge.
Poultry Roasted and served with a rich sauce or gravy and Seafood with creamy butter sauce:
Chardonnay – Landmark Overlook 2016 ($20). Packs a pungent nose of citrus, oak and spices. We recommend decanting to allow the nose to settle down. On the palate, the wine delivers a sweet, lemony attack in a luscious, round mouthfeel. The finish is long, reflecting a lovely balance of acidity, honeyed fruit and spice from the oak. This Overlook should appeal to oaked and unoaked Chardonnay lovers alike; only diehard Chablis lovers may dissent. If some oak is not to your liking, then look for a white Burgundy from 2014, ’15 or ’16.
Poultry Grilled or Smoked and Grilled Salmon, Swordfish or Tuna:
Pinot Noir from California – MacMurray Estate Russian River Valley 2015 ($27). The nose is rich with cherry fruit and subtle spices. This medium body Pinot is notable for its well-crafted balance of fruit, medium acidity and fine tannins. This is not as earthy as Burgundy but is a very pleasant food wine and an outstanding value. If you require more complexity, seek out the 2015 vintage of Red Burgundy, but be prepared to spend a minimum of $50.
Baked Ham and Roast Pork with Maple or Fruit Glaze:
Riesling – Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett 2017 ($30). Kabinett means the grapes were picked when fully ripe, so this Riesling has a hint of sweetness, making it ideal for ham or pork with a sweet glaze. This Riesling is noteworthy for its palate of white peach, Meyer lemon and tropical fruits. If you prefer a drier Riesling, look for one that has “Trocken” on the label. A Rosé from Côtes de Provence, such as Chateau Peyrassol Commanderie de Peyrassol would be an excellent alternative for those averse to the subtle sweetness of the Riesling.
. . . or if you prefer a red wine with your Ham or Pork Roast, consider . . .
Beaujolais: Foillard Morgon Côte du Py 2016 ($44). This wine is fruit-forward, structured and very classy. The red and black fruits show excellent depth and clarity, with spices and incense evident. Crafted by one of the best winemakers in Beaujolais. If your preference is a pairing that is less flamboyant, then go with the MacMurray Pinot Noir recommended above.
Beef or Lamb Roast
Napa Cabernet Sauvignon: Sequoia Grove 2015 ($42) is a medium-to-full bodied Cab rich with blue and black fruits. We were quite taken by the luscious mouthfeel and the fine-grained tannins. The winemaker used 40% American oak which likely accounts for the notable sage and cedar spices. This is an outstanding value for the money. If your preference is for Bordeaux, seek out the Chateau Monbousquet 2015 ($60). We have yet to taste this vintage, but it scored a 95 by The Wine Spectator and was ranked #16 in the top 100 wines of 2018. Earlier vintages we’ve tasted are a testament to these scores.
Rhone Red Blend: For those who wish to spend less, we encourage you to venture away from Cabernet. These wines from Southern France are dominated by Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedré, and are proverbial iron fists in velvet gloves. We recommend the Côtes du Rhone from Chateau Beaucastel called Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2015 ($29). This rich red serves up lush dark fruits and spice notes with a finish that is long and warm. For a truly special Holiday wine, seek out the Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vigne ($99-125, depending on the vintage).
We hope you found this helpful. Please accept our best wishes for a safe and joyful Holiday season!
Thomas Lansen, MD says
As always, Steve, great stuff.
Steven says
Thanks, Tom. All the best to you and Tara for a Merry Christmas and Prosperous & Healthy New Year!