Cabernet Franc: Joguet Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos 2013 – Pairing Rating: 9.0 out of 10.0
Super Bowl 52 was inspiring. The Eagles were 4.5-point underdogs (according to CBS Sports) yet went on to win by 8 points. We know we’re stretching the analogy a bit, but Cabernet Franc has always been an underdog to Cabernet Sauvignon. Less sweet, more herbal and not as full-bodied as Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc simply can’t compete in a one-on-one tasting without food.
Yet for all those reasons, Cab Franc, the parent (along with Sauvignon Blanc) of Cab Sauvignon, is a more versatile food-pairing wine. As evidence, we cite our 2014 post pairing Cab Franc with Grilled Rib Steak & Arugula and our 2015 post pairing the wine with Grilled Swordfish and Rosemary-Olives-Citrus Sauce. To those, we add this pasta dish: Rigatoni with Sausage, Squash and Goat Cheese. An outstanding dish that deserves to stand with the earlier posts.
The only adjustments we would suggest to this fine Rigatoni recipe is to use fresh chorizo rather than hot Italian sausage (too hot) and use Drunken Goat Cheese.
We admit that squash and goat cheese seem unlikely partners for pasta. However, both the cheese and the squash served to lighten up the dish compared to the traditional accompaniments of tomatoes and Parmigiano Reggiano. And the Cab Franc . . . an unusual choice for a tomato-free dish . . . beautifully complemented both the goat cheese and the squash without overpowering them with bold fruit.
The Cab Franc we most enjoy is from the Loire Valley in France: Charles Joguet Les Varennes du Grand Clos from the village of Chinon ($38). Joguet’s 40-year old vines grow on a north-facing slope of largely gravel and sand. With minimal clay, the vines ultimately yield wine of finesse and precision, in a light-to-medium bodied frame. Perfect for the subtle flavors of this dish.
Charles Joguet Chinon 
On the nose, the Cab Franc was redolent with red and black fruits, accompanied by black pepper and dark spice notes. The wine brought juicy raspberry and black currant to the palate, with accents of bell pepper, tobacco and stony minerals. The tannins were light, but the acidity was high, positioning it squarely as a food wine, not a cocktail wine. We had the 2013 vintage on hand, but we would recommend seeking out the 2014 or 2015 vintages for their more favorable weather conditions and, therefore, riper fruit.
In our judgment, the Joguet Cabernet Franc is one of finest in the Loire, but it may be difficult to find if you do not live on the East or West Coasts. California produces some Cab Francs (Chappellet) but these tend to be more full-bodied. We suggest looking to New York’s Finger Lakes Region (H.J. Wiemer or Ravines) for Cab Franc more in the Loire style.
Regardless of country of origin, seek out Cabernet Franc. It repeatedly bests Cabernet Sauvignon for those dishes calling for a lighter touch . . . like this excellent pasta dish.
Notes
Recipe is by Scott Conant from Fine Cooking Magazine, Issue #86
Ingredients
- Kosher Salt
- 1 lb. dried Rigatoni
- 3 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
- 3/4 lb. bulk spicy pork sausage (fresh Chorizo preferred) cut into chunks
- 1/3 cup finely chopped shallots (about 3 medium)
- 2 cups 3/4-inch-diced yellow and green summer squash
- 3 oz. fresh goat cheese, crumbled (about 3/4 cup); Drunken Goat works well.
- 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (optional)
Instructions
- Place a large pot of salted water over high hear.
- While the water is coming to a boil, heat 1/2 tbsp of olive oil in a 12″ skillet over medium heat.
- Add the sausage to the skillet, breaking up the chunks further if necessary.
- Cook the sausage until almost done, about 4-5 minutes.
- Transfer the sausage to a bowl with a slotted spoon.
- Drain the fat from the skillet but do not wipe it clean.
- Add the dried Rigatoni to the boiling salted water and cook to the recommended time.
- While the pasta is cooking, add the remaining 2-1/2 Tbsp of olive oil to the skillet and heat over medium heat.
- Cook the shallots in the skillet for about 2 minutes, then add the squash to the skillet and cook for about 5 minutes.
- While the squash is cooking and the pasta is finished cooking al dente, reserve 1/2 cup of hot pasta water.
- Drain the pasta and return the pasta to the empty pasta pot.
- Add the reserved sausage., the squash/shallot mixture and about 2 tbsp of pasta water to the pot.
- Toss the mixture over medium heat until the sausage is cooked through.
- Reduce heat to warm or low.
- Add the cheese to the pot and more pasta water; continue tossing until the cheese begins to melt and coats the pasta.
- Check for salt and pepper content.
- Add the parsley to the pot and stir.
- Transfer to warm bowls and top with grated Parmigiano, if using.
Thomas Lansen, MD says
Mmmmm…. everything but the squash, Steve.
Steven says
Thanks for commenting, Tom. This recipe may change your mind about the squash!
Eben Shantz says
Good. Now I know what do pair with this case of this Kunde Cab Franc I’ve been saving. Thanks Steve!
Steven says
Thanks so much for commenting, Eben. Trish and I hope you enjoy the Kunde with each of the Cab Franc recipes we’ve cited.