Wines of Sardinia

Following up on the previous post, our sailing trip continued southeast, departing Corsica’s Bonifacio harbor, through the Strait of Bonifacio, in route to the Maddalena Archipeligo of Sardinia.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our approach to the archipelago did not fail to remind us of the dramatic beauty of  the Strait of Bonifacio. Our anchorage below was a spectacular example of what we encountered.

The archipelago itself consists of seven main islands (only 3 of which are inhabited) and numerous small islets. Less extreme topographically than Corsica, the islands of the archipelago are noted for their windblown coasts, clear waters and abundant wildlife . . . complete with postcard sunsets.

The largest island is home to the largest town, La Maddalena, where we enjoyed octopus, calamari, pasta, Sardinian Rosé and an uninvited musical talent at Ristorante La Grotta.  It seems his strategy was to play the same tune over and over until we silenced him with a Euro. It worked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back aboard Marietta 3, the crew outdid themselves with Pasta and Lobster dinner, the likes of which we had not seen on previous trips to Italy.

The perfect pairing with this lobster pasta (and most seafood) is Vermentino, the famous white wine of Sardinia. While the northern Gallura region is the most noteworthy for producing Vermentino, we enjoyed the Pala Stellato ($28) grown and produced in the southern part of the Island. We found it brimming with tropical fruits, tart green apple and meyer lemon; the zesty acidity and mouthfeel were perfectly balanced, allowing the wine to pair with the lobster or simply sip as an aperitif. Readers who live in the Midwest may find it impossible to locate the Stellato there.  Instead, seek out the Vermentinos of Sella & Mosca or Argiolas.

One cautionary note about Sardinian Vermentino: some of the producers also make an age-worthy, oxidative style of Vermentino that can be off-putting to the uninitiated. Capichera and Dettori Tuderi Bianco are two that we are aware of. These are serious whites and acquired tastes. As challenging to pair as deciphering the lyrics of a Yes song. Our advice:  ask your wine merchant about the style of the Vermentino you intend to purchase.

In addition to Vermentino, Sardinia is noted for the red grapes Carignano and Cannonau (Grenache in France and Garnacha in Spain). First up . . . the Carignano of Capichera:

Capichera Assajé 2013 ($58) is mostly Carignano with some Syrah added, aged 8 months in oak (presumably French). The color is intensely dark red and the nose carries the black fruit smell of Syrah. On the palate, however, the weight and mouthfeel are somewhat lighter than Syrah, while retaining the richness of red and black fruits, spice and leather, accompanied by polished tannins. This is a structured, somewhat alcoholic (14.5%) wine that is perfect for grilled or braised meats. An interesting alternative to Syrah, Brunello or a super-Tuscan red.

Perhaps more famous is the Argiolas Turriga 2011 ($78). This rich red is mostly Cannonau (Grenache), with modest amounts of Malvasia Nera, Carignano and Bovale Sardo, aged 2 years in French oak. Slightly less dark than the Assajé in color, with a nose of red fruits, plum and spice. This is both bigger and less sweet than some Grenache you may have tasted from the Southern Rhone, Spain or California. It is fruit-forward and well-endowed but not over-extracted and heavy. If you enjoy Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Priorat, you will enjoy this wine . . . again with heavier fare.

The Turriga was enjoyed by the passengers and crew at a casual restaurant in Porto Cervo – our final destination.  The dinner was a convivial, fitting ending to a spectacular sailing trip. Thanks again to our hosts Cathy and Jim. And a tip of the hat to Richard for some of the photographs.